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Single Turbo Conversion 

Remove Stock Twin Turbo System (see  Stock Twins Removal or view the Turbo's PDF file)

With The Entire Stock Twin Turbo System Removed You Can Move On.

Boostlogic T67 Installation Guide

Thanks to Mike Lee for taking the time to do this writeup.
Installation Tips

  • - Refer to the manual for torque specs and other information, if needed.
  • - Loosely fit everything first, the last thing you want to do is torque everything down and have something not fit right.
  • - Use common sense, and make sure no electrical connections or hoses are directly in contact with the manifold or downpipe.
  • Wire tie or tuck any loose electrical connectors not being used after the stock twins are remove.

The following is a set of instructions for installing a Boostlogic turbo kit.
Your engineshould pretty much look like this with the stock turbos removed:

Before proceeding, now would be a good time to clean your engine block,as more of it will be exposed after a single turbo conversion. Justmake sure you plug your exhaust ports so nothing accidentally goes inthere!
Now lets take care of a few things before putting the manifold on.
Oil return line
Your kit should have came with the fittings required for the oil feedand return lines. On the exhaust side of the engine, right above theoil pan, there is a flange that has a long pipe connected to it,running along the side of the block. This is the stock oil return. Thispipe is going to be removed completely.
- Remove the two 12mm nuts, and take off the whole pipe. Preserve themetal gasket, as it will be used for the new oil return line.
The hole in the center of the picture is what you should have now once you remove the hose.
One of the two flanges(the oval flange) supplied with the kit will beused here, along with the blue 45-degree AN fitting. Use teflon pasteor tape on the NPT side of the fitting. Make sure you screw in the ANfitting to the flange first, since it will be difficult to turn it onceyou bolt the flange on. When the AN fitting screwed in, make sure it isfacing upwards, like in the picture. Otherwise, you may have somefitment issues when you screw the AN-10 line in. Insert the flange ontothe two studs, and secure using the factory nuts you removed earlier.You now have setup the oil return port on the block. USE FACTORY GASKET!
Torque specs: Hand Tight
Oil feed line
In your kit, you should have a bolt where the AN-3 braided line screwsinto. The other side of this bolt screws into the block. There are twoports on the block, one in the front and one in the rear. These portshad banjo bolts going to them. Now, we will use the FRONT port to feedoil to the turbo. Using the supplied bolt, screw it into the front oilfeed port. There is a bolt that is supplied for the rear port. Use thisbolt to plug the hole. Use the stock crush washer to prevent oil leaks!!
Block Rear Oil Port
Towards the rear of the block, you will find an oil port that used tohave a banjo bolt going inside it. This is going to be blocked off (#1in the picture), since will only use the front oil port to feed oil tothe turbo. The kit came with a black bolt (it may look like it was cut)that will be inserted into this port. Put a stock crush washer on fromthe factory banjo bolt. The other nipple, #2 in the picture below, is adrain plug. It doesn't need to be capped off, since the bolt directlyto the left of it controls that, but I capped mine off anyway.
Heater Hose Modification
Now if you look towards the rear of the engine, you will see someheater hoses that look like a giant mess of spaghetti. I went toAutozone and purchased a couple new hoses to clean this mess up. Removeall of the hoses first, and you should see two ports on the firewallafter doing so. Rerun a new hose from the rear of the engine (the arrowon the far right) to the LEFT firewall port. Then run another hose fromthe coolant pipe to the RIGHT firewall port. Make sure these hoses areclamped down good, but be careful not to bend the delicate coolantnipples on the firewall. Also, make sure the heater hose doesn't comenear the downpipe. In our situation, the hose curved immediately afterconnecting to the coolant pipe, so it doesn't travel behind the DP. Itmay even be wise to wrap these hoses in heat insulation material.

Block off existing coolant ports
You will find a bunch of nipples left over after removing the stockturbos. These most likely are coolant ports that need to be capped off.Use a rubber hose and put a bolt through one end with some goodsealant, then clamp the other end of the hose down on the nipple. Makesure the bolt fits into the hose tightly, or it will leak. We grindedthe threads down to a smooth finish so coolant couldn't run through thethreads. Don't use vacuum caps to seal off coolant ports! They crackafter time!
Towards the front of the engine, there are 3 coolant ports that need tobe blocked off. For the water neck pipe with the 2 nipples on it, wetemporarily connected a hose to both ports and clamped the hose down,until we can get a replacement pipe that has the nipples welded shut.The other port is towards the top of the alternator. Make sure these issealed really good, since we don't want anything leaking onto thealternator.
Now block off 3 ports (the 3 arrows on the left side of the picture)towards the rear of the block, two which only require vacuum caps thatlead to the unused pressure tank on the other side of the engine. The3rd port, is hard to see since it is behind the heater hose, but makesure this gets blocked off, and use a clamp. The vacuum caps don'trequire clamps since the pressure tank will not be used. Edited by Kean: Theport off the engine block (the rightmost arrow) doesn't need to beblocked like it is in the picture. It is a drain for the block and doesnot drain any fluid until you loosen the drain bolt.
Now double check everything to make sure all hoses are clamped down andall plugs / bolts are torqued down. These will be more difficult toaccess once the manifold is on. Any last minute cleaning should be donenow as well.
Manifold Fitment
-Mount the wastegate to the manifold now. Make sure the gasket that wassupplied is used. When bolting the wastegate on, face the open side ofthe wastegate away from the manifold. It should be pointing directlyopposite of the header (see pic). Leave the dump tube off for now.Also, use two NPT fittings that were supplied to screw into the holestowards the buttom and side of the wastegate. Be sure to use teflonpast or tape on these NPT fittings! These will be your vacuum line fora boost controller. Make sure the nipple is facing away from theenginge block and downpipe. Route the boost hose beneath the motormount towards the front of the car, then to your boost controllersolenoid. It is important that these hoses are kept away from majorsources of heat, such as the turbo manifold, wastegate dump tube anddownpipe.
Torque Specs for wastegate bolts: Hand Tight
Grinding manifold studs
In order for the manifold to fit properly, you will need to grind downthe heads of a few studs that the manifold will slide into. Mostlikely, you will need to grind down the #2, #4,#5 and #6 studs, with #1being the stud closest to the front of the car. If this is not done,then tightening the manifold can cause the studs to hit the manifold.About 1/8" needs to be shaved off from the stud, but it can vary. It isbest to fit the manifold and determine how much the studs need to begrinded down for better accuracy.
Tightening down the Manifold
Now that all prepping is done, the manifold can be bolted on andtorqued down. The existing exhaust manifold gasket can be re-used,since it is a multi layered metal gasket. Go ahead and put the manifoldon and screw the nuts on. The easiest way to get the nuts on is to tiltthe manifold and start with the bottom studs first. Once those havebeen started, you can move to the top studs.
Torque Specs: Factory exhaust manifold specs from the manual
Turbo Install
Now we are ready to install the turbo! The kit came with a bunch ofnuts and bolts. There is a stud that has no head on it. This will screwinto the rear hole closest to the engine. Go ahead and screw this infairly tight, as it will be used to secure the turbo.
Now remove the turbo compressor/wheel from the exhaust housing. Simplyundo the bolts surrounding the exhaust housing and pull the wheel out.
It is easiest to start with installing just the exhaust housing, andworking from there. Take the exhaust housing and bolt it to themanifold. Use the bolts and lock-washers supplied with the kit. Thereshould be 3 shorter bolts that will be used, and one nut. Don't forgetthe gasket that was supplied with the kit!
Once bolting down the exhaust housing, you should see this:
Make sure all bolts and the one nut are torqued down extremely well.
Now put the compressor back into the exhaust housing and secure it withthe bolts previously removed. These bolts should be relatively tight,but don't over-tigthen.
Now fasten the oil return and oil feed lines. If you haven't alreadydone so, bolt the flange w/ the NPT/AN adapter fitting to the turbo.Make sure the fitting is facing outward and make sure it is tight. Usea teflon sealant for this fitting.
Install turbo housing
Simply place the housing over the compressor, and use the suppliedbrackets to hold it in place. You may want to test fit the intercoolerpiping before torquing down.
Install wastegate dump tube
-Use the supplied dump tube, and face it away from the engine towardsthe ground. There is only one direction to mount it. If your car is a97 or 98, then you have to grind down one of the suspension brackets.If you have a 93-96 supra, you shouldn't have to modify anything.
Suspension support bracket (needs to be grinded down for 97-98 supras.

Install downpipe
Now you can install the downpipe.Use the supplied clamp to secure it inplace. Make sure the downpipe is centered between the wastegate andbody of the car before tightening. You don't want this touchinganything.
-secure downpipe with clamp
-screw the two studs w/ hex key ends into the o2 sensor bung
Place stock o2 sensor and gasket on the bung and secure with the factory nuts.

Install Intake & Intercooler piping
- go ahead andinstall the intake pipe and air filter. Use the supplied hose clamps totighten down. Also repeat this process for the intercooler pipe to goonto a Greddy 3-row. A 4-row requires some modifications, but Kean canhook you up.

Install boost controller
On the compressor housing there is a vacuum port, take one of thefittings supplied and screw it in. Run a hose from the side port of thewastegate to the turbo, go into a T and run the other end to the "in"of the boost controller. Then run a separate hose from the top of thewastegate to the "out" port of the boost controller. Most boostcontrollers require you to swtich the controller from actuatore toexternal wastegate. Make sure you check this or else you may not beable to regulate boost. Your boost controller solenoid may vary, so usethe manual.

Double Check
Make sure all hoses and pipes are clamped down extremely well. Don'twant an intercooler pipe blowing off at 30psi of boost!
You should be ready to go -- Just make sure there is oil in the engineand you have filled your radiator back up with engine coolant. It isalso a good idea to pre-oil the turbo before starting.

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