As a general suggestion before going out and purchasing part after part to diagnose a problem, take a look at the General Maintenance PDF Files and go over the car to ensure everything is torqued/tightened or simply just complies to what specifications recommend.
93-96 General Maintenance Scheduled Maintenance 97+ General Maintenance
And remember to use this information at your own discretion.
Symptom:
When backing up and turning the wheel to the right I hear a loud popping sound.
Problem:
The two nuts under the front sub-frame that connects to the control arms are loose. Check BOTH SIDES OF CAR.
Fix:
Tighten/Torque nuts to spec (125 N*m/92ft-lbs)
and check routinely.
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Symptom:
Rear Hatch Rattles when making turns.
Problem:
Weak rubber hatch bumpers
Fix:
Replace rubber hatch bumpers with stronger updated part
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Symptom:
Engine won’t turn over when first turning key, it just click the first few tries
Problem:
Starter is dieing
Fix:
Replace starter
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Symptom:
Engine makes no or little boost on second turbo, it also makes a bad noise
Problem:
2nd turbo is dead
Fix:
Replace turbo or upgrade to a single turbo with the full conversion.
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Symptom:
“Thunk” when coming to a stop, and then starting off again, and sometimes when making a tight turn, especially down a hill
Problem:
Drivers side engine mount
Fix:
Replace the mount with new updated part. Or TRD engine/trans mounts
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Symptom:
Light grey smoke with a blueish tint when first starting the car. Also
leaves a puff of smoke when leaving a stop light, or blipping the
throttle after idling
Problem:
Leaking valve stem seals
Fix:
Replace seals (not a cheap or easy repair)
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Symptom:
The car was a full throttle and at high boost, then the engine just died all the sudden, now it runs but has almost no power
Problem:
An intercooler hose popped off.
Fix:
Clean hose connections, and reinstall using T-Bolt hose clamps. Tighten clamps firmly, but do not crush the hose
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Symptom:
Rapid ticking sound when accelerating, even light acceleration, and
also when letting off the gas. Sound does not change with speed (sounds
the same at 2mph, and 70mph)
Problem:
Worn rear upper control arm bushings
Fix:
Either replace, or try lubricating
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Symptom:
Noise coming from rear wheel
Problem:
Possibly rear wheel bearing
Fix:
Jack up that side, rotate wheel by hand, and try to wiggle back and
forth. If you feel roughness when turning, or movement when wiggling,
replace bearings and seals as soon as possible
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Symptom:
Transmission seems clunky when applying and letting of throttle abruptly, or shifting gears
Problem:
Normal behavior for the very beefy Getrag transmission
Fix:
Try matching revs with engine speed when shifting, and drive more
smoothly. The noise will go away, and your transmission will last longer (SupraForums.com)
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Symptom:
Transmission sounds like ball-bearings in a can when idling or at slow speeds
Problem:
Normal behavior of the stock sprung flywheel.
Fix:
Get used to it!?!?
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Symptom:
Smoke (grey/blue) comes out of exhaust when letting off the throttle after being on boost, or while on boost
Problem:
Could be turbo seals
Fix:
Rebuild or replace turbos (check for oil in the intercooler hoses)
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Symptom:
Excessive oil consumption
Problem:
Either PCV valve (cheapest and easiest to fix), Valve Stem Seals, Turbo Seals, Piston Rings/Cylinder Wall, or oil leak
Fix:
Track down which one it is
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Symptom:
Engine misses at high boost
Problem:
Miss firing spark plugs
Fix:
Switch to NGK 6097s gapped at .031-to-.035
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Symptom:
Second turbo doesn’t kick-in immediately after down shifting
Problem:
Probably the pressure tank is bad
Fix:
Replace pressure tank (also check lines)
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Symptom:
When my (6spd) car hits high boost, the car seems sluggish, and the
tach instantly jumps to high rpms and stays there, even though the car
is still accelerating
Problem:
Clutch is slipping
Fix:
Replace clutch, pressure plate and flywheel (along with flywheel bolts, and snap rings)
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Symptom:
High pitched squeal from engine compartment
Problem:
Accessory belt tensioner pulley bearing bad (usually happens as a result of getting it wet when washing engine compartment
Fix:
Replace tensioner pulley
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Symptom:
Odometer and gauge cluster look fine when lights are off, but when I turn the headlights on, they go dim or even off.
Problem:
Dimmer Relay/rheostat may be bad.
Fix:
Replace Dimmer Relay
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Symptom: Turn Signals (inside and outside) and hazards will not work after I had the dash apart.
Problem: Hazard switch is NOT plugged in or fuse is blown.
Fix: First check and make sure the hazard switch is plugged in (next to odometer). If it is plugged in, than continue to check fuses. If they still do not work you may have to check the wiring and refer to the repair manuals in the diagrams section of this site.
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Symptom: I just installed LED turn signals/tail lights or other LED bulbs and my lights are blinking really fast. What can I do to fix that.
Problem: Your normal turn signal relay (left kick panel INSIDE car on drivers side .. for diagram look in diagrams section under fuse panels) is designed for halogen bulbs.
Fix: Purchase an Electronic LED Turn Signal/ Flasher Relay. The part is EP34 or CF13JL-02.
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Symptom:
Problem:
Fix:
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Symptom:
Took dash apart, now the airbag light stays on
Problem:
The Odometer/Malfunction Lights panel was disconnected when the ignition key was in the on position
Fix:
(From MKIV.com) Go under the hood and open the diagnostic cap located
on the passenger-side near the firewall, look for AB & TC. Make two
plugs with wire to fit into these connectors. With the ignition key
turned to the ON position alternate the two wires to the negative
terminal of the battery. They need to be done in a consistent rhythm,
about one second apart. TC,AB,TC,AB,TC,AB... This needs to be done
several times. If you can't get it to work, try adjusting the speed. It
is helpful to have someone look at the airbag light while performing
this to let you know when the light goes out/blink.
DIAGNOSIS SYSTEM
The ECM contains a built-in self-diagnosis system by which troubles with the engine signal network are detected and a malfunction indicator lamp on the instrument panel lights up.
By analyzing various signals as shown in a later table (see table below) the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects system malfunctions relating to the sensors or actuators.
In the normal mode, the self-diagnosis system monitors 19 items, indicated by code No. as shown (see table below). A malfunction indicator lamp informs the driver that a malfunction has been detected. The lamp goes off automatically when the malfunction has been repaired. But the diagnostic trouble code(s) remains stored in the ECM memory (except for code Nos. 16 and 53). The ECM stores the code(s) until it is cleared by removing the EFI No. 1 fuse with the ignition switch off.
The diagnostic trouble code can be read by the number of blinks of the malfunction indicator lamp when TE1 and E1 terminals on the data link connector 1 or 2 are connected. When 2 or more codes are indicated, the lowest number (code) will appear first.
In the test mode, 13 items, indicated by code No. as shown (see table below) are monitored. If a malfunction is detected in any one of the systems indicated by code Nos. 13, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 35, 41, 47, 71 and 78 the ECM lights the malfunction indicator lamp to warn the technician that malfunction has been detected. In this case, TE2 and E1 terminals on the data link connector 2 should be connected as shown later.
In the test mode, even if the malfunction is corrected, the malfunction code is stored in the ECM memory even when the ignition switch is off (except code Nos. 42 and 51). This also applies in the normal mode. The diagnostic trouble mode (normal or test) and the output of the malfunction indicator lamp can be selected by connecting the TE1, TE2 and E1 terminals on the data link connector 2, as shown later.
A test mode function has been added to the functions of the self-diagnosis system of the normal mode for the purpose of detecting malfunctions such as poor contact, which are difficult to detect in the normal mode. This function fills up the self-diagnosis system. The test mode ca be implemented by the technician following the appropriate procedures of check terminal connection and operation described later.
Diagnosis Inspection (Normal Mode)
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP CHECK
- The malfunction indicator lamp will come on when the ignition switch is turned ON and the engine is not running. HINT: If the malfunction indicator lamp does not lightup, proceed to troubleshooting of the telltale light RH (See page BE-61)
- When the engine is started, the malfunction indicator lamp should go off. If the light remains on, the diagnosis system has detected a malfunction or abnormality in the system.
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK
- Turn ignition switch on.
- Connect terminal between TE1 and E1 of data link connector 1 or 2.
- Read the diagnostic trouble code from malfunction indicator lamp. HINT: If a diagnostic trouble code is not output, check the TE1 terminal circuit.
- Check the details of the malfunction using the diagnostic trouble code table (see table below).
- After completing the check, disconnect terminals TE1 and E1 and turn off the display. HINT: In the event of 2 or more malfunction codes, indication will begin from the smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger.
