Track/Drag: NGK # 6239 / R5671A-10
Daily Driving: NGK # 3030
Plug gapping should be used as follows:
DLI/DIS-4 or Tec3R highly recommended/required if you go big boost:
(** C16 and/or Methanol - use the lower number)
up to 25psi: .26 - .28
25.1-30psi: .24 - .26
30.1-35psi: .22 - .24
35.1-43.5psi: .18 - .22
I've tested this with 3330's as well, and those work ok, but the main difference it that the 3330's are better for daily driving and the 6239's are better for track/drag/big hp primarily due to the design. 3330's and most other plugs have the electrode and the white ceramic higher than the end of the plug - this I'm told is good for low/medium rpms, but doesn't burn as well at higher psi and higher temps. These 6239's have just the electrode protruding from the "top" of the plug (i.e. you look at the plug from the side, you'll see only the electrode not the white ceramic sleeve)
I've tested different plug gaps on the dyno now for several days, and this setup seems to work the best - I'm running 36-43psi, and I have problems if my plugs are gapped less than .22 (i.e. I don't burn all the fuel).
- Thanks to Kirk
1) Buy 6 New spark plugs, you have a choice of stock plug or any of your favorite plug on the market,
- Here is a list of the most commonly used spark plugs,
- Stock Denso PK20R11, Comes pre-gaped at 0.043 inch (best on stock supra)
- Stock NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978), Comes pre-gaped at 0.043 inch (best on stock supra)
- NGK BKR7E (6097), Comes pre-gaped at 0.032 inch (best on BPU & APU supra)
- NGK BCPR7ES (3330), Comes pre-gaped at 0.032 inch (best on BPU & APU supra)
- Also buy 2 crankcase hoses, Toyota part number 12263-46010 & 12264-46010 (if needed), if you have not replaced your hoses in a long time, chances are you going to have a hardened crankcase hoses that will get damaged on removal, its always a good idea to save new ones just in case you need them one day.
2) Remove the oil cap and plug up the hole with a towel so you don't drop anything down the oil hole accidentally.
3) With an Allen wrench(5mm) remove the top cover of the engine, 10 screws. This best done on a cold motor.
4) Remove the two crankcase vent hoses that run between the valve covers. if they are hard to come off, clamp them in the middle with pliers and twist the hose.
5) Using a small flat head screwdriver, release the wiring harness clips.
6) Disconnect wiring from the coil packs. two connectors per coil packs.
7) Unbolt the coil packs holders. there is a 10mm bolt on each side of the coil packs holders. there are 3 coil packs holders.
8) Lift out the coil packs holders. Rock them back and forth if they are hard to come out, that will help them come loose.
9) Use a deep well 5/8th spark plug socket to remove plugs.
10) Gap (if needed) & install the new plugs (torque it to ~13 ft/lbs). or as shown on the manufacture interactions.
11) Install the coil packs. Make sure they are seated.
12) Connect wiring and re-clip wiring harness to clip. make sure each harness routes *below* the crankcase vent.
13) install crankcase hoses that you bought (or previous ones if they are not cracked).
14) re-install cover and cover screws.
15) Remove towel from oil hole and replace it with the oil cap.
